This manual and web site, all information and data and photos contained herein, are the sole proprietary property of glass2 and are for the use of glass2, its partners and customers only, yet shall not be copied, reproduced, or redistributed in any manner without the express written consent of glass2.
glass2 is a high‐grade, inorganic material produced by high temperature forging; it is an environmentally friendly material for countertops, bar tops, vanities, shower doors, flooring, cladding and paneling. It can be used for both indoor and outdoor applications. glass2 is resistant to weathering due to wind, rain, and sunlight. glass2 is produced from 99% fused recycled glass and is resin free. This material is easy to clean and practically non‐porous. glass2 is available two (2) standard slab thicknesses: 20mm, and 30mm; custom thicknesses may be available so call or email for detailed information. As an option, glass2 can be laminated to Clear Glass or a Clear Tempered Glass to improve its ability to withstand abuse during transportation and to give extra strength for cut-outs (sinks, stove tops, etc), for use as table tops, shower doors, and wall cladding, or any other application where additional strength or durability is desired.
This version of the on-line manual supersedes all previous manuals.
Content is subject to change at anytime and without notice.
Revision date: 21-June-2016
Introduction ……………………………………………………………………………………………………………… 1
1. Saw Cutting …………………………………………………………………………………………………………… 3
2. Hand Cutting ………………………………………………………………………………………………………… 3
3. Grinding ………………………………………………………………………………………………………………… 4
4. Filling holes …………………………………………………………………………………………………………… 4
5. Polishing ………………………………………………………………………………………………………………. 5
6. Drilling …………………………………………………………………………………………………………………. 6
7. Sink Cut-Out …………………………………………………………………………………………………………. 6
8. Transportation and Handling ………………………………………………………………………………. 6
9. Installation …………………………………………………………………………………………………………… 9
10. End user Guidelines …………………………………………………………………………………………. 10
11. Repairs ……………………………………………………………………………………………………………… 11
12. Tooling and Supply List ……………………………………………………………………………………… 11
13. Notes ………………………………………………………………………………………………………………… 13
Diagram Aids …………………………………………………………………………………………………………… 14
1. Automated Cutting
glass2 highly recommends and supports the use of a waterjet for cutting as the best possible method.
- The best cutting result is reached by using a water jet and following manufacturer’s guidelines for cutting and drilling into glass; which includes using the correct aggregate (abrasive) specifically designed for glass.
- A solid surface barrier made of ½ inch thick or greater high-density foam insulation is required on top of the steel waterjet grating. This will provide a level, clean, and vibration dampened surface.
- This is a proven method of insuring a clean, damage free, and safe cut with minimal to no edge chipping.
- The waterjet can perform all cutting and drilling operations and should be used whenever possible.
If the fabrication is to be done using traditional machinery (bridge saw, router, diamond pads) the proven methods and techniques for natural stone or a man-made solid surface, then the following procedures must be performed for a successful cut:
- Every cut must be done using as much water as possible.
- The proper blade speed, authorized blades, and extremely flat table beds are prerequisites for clean cuts with no chips.
- Every blade to be used should be first tested by the fabricator, to find the optimum cutting speed for their bridge saw, CNC, or other type of machine used.
- A medium bond diamond blade gives the best cutting results and the type saw blade of choice for cutting glass2 is a porcelain or ceramic type blade with a maximum thickness of 2.5mm. When making any cut, the blade must pass through the glass2 by a minimum of 3mm.
- When using a stone/concrete cutting table, it must be very clean with no stone fragments but any type of stone table bed is not recommended.
- If the stone table is not perfectly flat, then it must first be leveled and then a surface barrier put over the stone, concrete, or wood is required, just as it is with the waterjet. A sheet of ½” thick high-density foam insulation is the barrier of choice as this item will provide a level, clean, and vibration dampened surface.
- A piece of scrap stone (granite) or solid surface (quartz) must be placed adjacent to the glass2d at the end of the saw rip. The cut from the glass2 slab should continue into the scrap material. This allows the blade’s energy to be transferred to the scrap stone and will help protect the corners and final edges of the glass2 piece being cut.
- Saw blade rotational speed should be approximately 4,000 – 4,500 rpm’s, the cutting speed at no more than 1 LF per minute travel, and the highest amount of water volume possible should always be used. Blade speed and travel are based on a bridge saw with a 20 hp motor using a 14” silent core continuous rim blade. This is for reference only because each fabricator must test, evaluate, and determine the proper rotational speed of their saw blade and the proper cutting speed through the material being used, which depends primarily on the equipment performing the cut.
2. Hand Cutting
Hand cutting blades should a continuous rim, ceramic or porcelain type.
- Hand cutting must be done utilizing an abundant amount of water; never can glass2 be cut dry or with minimal water. Water fed tools that cool the blade from both sides work best when making any type of cut-out (sinks, bowls, cook tops, faucet holes, electrical receptacles, etc). If water is not available, as on some installation sites, then the glass2 material must be taken to a location where water is available. Cutting the glass2 material dry will most likely result in large chipping, fractures, or breakage.
- It is necessary to wear safety glasses and a mask to prevent possible injuries, especially to the eyes. Water fed cutting also helps prevent injuries from occurring should chipping occur.
- When performing any cutting of glass2, never put too much pressure on the blade. The fabricator should allow the blade to perform the work and this will produce the best possible cut.
- Standard electrical receptacle cut-outs have square corners and ALL inside square corners are not allowed in glass2.
- The only authorized method for providing an “opening” in glass2 is if the corner is “rounded” and the easiest, most reliable way of doing this is by drilling.
- Using an abundance of water is the key to success in any cutting or drilling situation and this is not optional, whether at the shop or the job site.
To perform grinding by hand, it is acceptable to use solid cup wheels with medium-bond diamonds.
- Aluminum backed wheels are recommended as these limit vibration and since these are softer than steel-backed wheels, they allow minor flexing so there’s more control. This type of the wheel gives a very smooth grind and will minimize chipping and with all grinding, an abundant supply of water is required.
- You cannot use aggressive diamond tools on glass2 without increasing the risk of material damage (chips and fractures) and personnel safety.
- After cutting the pieces to the correct size or cutting sink hole, be it a CNC or handheld profiling machine, DO NOT start grinding with Position 1 (coarse). Start grinding with Position 2 or Position 3 (depending on the tool manufacturer) and insure that your diamond wheel has holes for the water feed.
- Before you start grinding, be sure to put a small bevel on the top and bottom to prevent chipping.
- Do not use the grinding tool like you would on granite. Grinding has to be slow (let the diamond tooling do the job) and make sure that the water feed is continuous, abundant, and consistent.
To make a straight polished edge on glass2, grinding is not needed if the proper saw blade or waterjet with aggregate is used for the initial cut.
- The grinding cup wheels will be used only for fabricating non‐straight edges (bevel, round, etc.).
- The cup wheel of choice has either a smooth surface or is filled between the segments with epoxy resin, ceramic base, or other appropriate material.
- Diamond pads may also be used for grinding and shaping but do not forget that you cannot overheat glass so use plenty of water to keep the glass cool.
- Any piece that requires an inside corner radius, it cannot be cut at a right angle (90 degrees). A radius cut much be performed that is equal to or greater than the thickness of the material being used
2cm thick material … 2cm radius required
3cm thick material … 3cm radius required
laminated edges using 2cm thick x 2cm thick … 4cm radius required
- 90 degree inside corners are NOT allowed and must be avoided, whether on an “L” shaped countertop, a sink hole, a drop-in type stove top cut-out, etc.
- Grinding stones are not recommended because these are normally used without water and water is required in the fabrication of glass2.
4. Filling holes
Similar to most other glass materials, glass2 will have some holes on the edges and rare few pin holes on the surface. If filling up these holes is deemed necessary or desired, this must be done after polishing yet in most cases, due to the small size of the holes and the nature of our glass, it is recommended that the holes be left “as is”.
- After the material has been cut-to-size, and polished, the surface must be thoroughly dry; use a high-pressure air nozzle to get out all water and debris from any holes that may exist.
- After drying, wipe the edge with either acetone or denatured alchohol as this also cleans and dries even the smallest of holes.
- If you use a torch to assist in the drying process, you must monitor the temperature of the glass and not let it get above 90 degrees Celsius (195 degrees Fahrenheit) – this is NOT recommended.
glass2 is heat resistant but all glass absorbs and disburses heat much faster than stone! Excessive heat glass2.
- Surface holes should be filled with a clear flowing epoxy and the excess cut off with a razor blade before the epoxy fully cures.
- The holes filled can then be buffed using a high density cotton pad and Cerium Oxide, as discussed in Section 5. Polishing. Do not apply too much pressure and do not build up heat or the resin will “pop out” of the holes you are trying to fill.
glass2 has very good polishing qualities; the polishing technique is very simple and very similar to natural stone polishing. The difference is that glass2 is a consistent material so there are no “soft & hard spots” within the material.
Polishing with glass specific silicone-based sanding pads:
- Follow the manufacturer’s directions, from first pad to the last pad. Since these pads differ greatly, consulting the manufacturer is required to achieve the finish desired.
- Stepped polishing will achieve a smooth finish without waves or ripples.
- There is no need for buffing or waxing.
- When sanding, dry polishing can be accomplished if pad manufacturer’s directions are followed and the operator wears the proper OSHA approved AFM (air filter mask).
Every person in the fabrication shop or at the job site must wear
OSHA approved AFM’s if dry polishing is being performed on glass2.
- Steps to repair the surface or edges, using the glass specific 3-step dry pad method:
- CLEAN. Thoroughly clean the surface or edge to be repaired so the pads will not pick up dust or debris that could negatively affect the repair process.
- GRIND. Start with 180 grit ventilated sanding disc and pad (#1) to grind (remove) the scratch to its lowest level making sure the haze (cutting pattern) left in the glass is consistent and uniform. Be sure to periodically check your progress as this also avoids the glass from overheating. Exceeding a surface temperature of 195 degrees Fahrenheit can be detrimental to the glass, causing cracks or fractures, especially in the darker colors.
- CLEAN. Thoroughly clean again the surface before going to the next polishing pad.
- POLISH. Continue with 320 grit ventilated sanding disc and pad #2) to polish the repaired areas and be sure to move outside the previous repair area by half the pad’s width.
- CLEAN. Thoroughly clean again the surface before going to the next polishing pad.
- SHINE. The last step is to shine the surface using a high density felt pad and cerium oxide. A water-fed system on the electric or pneumatic grinder will make the process faster and give a higher gloss. The surface nee on the surface, keep the pad as flat as possible but when working on the edge it can be beneficial to angle the disc so that the outer 30% of the pad is doing the work. You will have to change the pads often as the glass particles quickly fill up the pad and the sand will dissipate during the grinding or polishing process.
- REPAIR. As an example for your reference, consider a minor scratch on the surface of glass2 at 5” long or less and 0.15mm deep or less, a skilled glass technician can repair the surface in less than 30 minutes. Please understand that the surface can be repaired very nicely and to an acceptable level but to match “exactly” the surface produced by the factory is nearly impossible.
Note – each sanding pad should have it’s own sanding disc so no grit is transferred from one disc to another.
Polishing with stone-type diamond-based pads:
- The polishing should begin from Grit 100 and then go up to Grit 3000.
- Stepped polishing will achieve a smooth finish without waves or ripples.
- There is no need for buffing or waxing.
- Dry polishing with diamond pads is not allowed and must be avoided, even on the job site.
- Use of Cerium Oxide as a final step will give the highest shine possible by hand and most closely replicate the factory surface finish.
The top and bottom edges of ALL sides of any glass2 piece to be installed must be beveled to a minimum 2mm because:
- It helps relieve stress in the material by removing all chips
- Improper cutting may demand edges to be beveled more than 2mm to ensure all chips are removed
- It creates a safer edge for both the fabricator and the end-user.
- This is the proper way to start all other edge details.
A water jet is the preferred method of drilling faucet holes or forming inside corners.
For mechanical drilling, an abundant amount of water must be used for cooling the bit while drilling. Before buying a special drill bit, test the ones you already use for natural stone drilling.
- The best drilling results are achieved by using “water fed, medium coarse, continuous rim, bonded diamond” drill bits.
- Drill bits, like saw blades, must be prepared (sharpened) before use; prepare in the same manner as the saw blade, using a fireproof tile or grinding stone to clean the diamonds.
- glass2 can be drilled very smoothly as long as the proper speed is used (2,000 – 2,500 rpm’s).
- Avoid twisting and applying extra pressure while drilling; drill slowly, allowing the drill bit to cut steadily.
- The backside of glass2 must be “fully supported” with a piece of glass or stone when drilling any type of hole. The support should not allow the glass2 to either flex or move in the slightest. Drilling into a piece of glass or stone prevents excessive stress and transfers the drill bit energy to the support piece preventing a “blow out” on the backside; it also prevents excessive tool penetration, which could result in excessive tool contact with the glass2 surface; such a force is most likely to create damage to the glass2
Drill holes into each corner of the sink template before cutting out the appropriate sink hole dimensions, be it mechanically drilled or via a waterjet. For example, if you have a square or rectangle sink hole, you should drill all four corners with a drill bit that creates the required radius and then make the required cut.
- Drilling the holes first will relieve the stress and will prevent the glass2 from opening (fissures and cracks). Unlike other baked or forged glass materials, glass2 has very low inherent stress, which allows you to cut holes into any size slab produced.
- Before making a cut, be sure that the fabrication table is flat with no gaps or spaces at any point-of-contact and that there is no movement of the counter top during the sink drilling/cutting process.
- There must be a minimum of 4” of glass2 on the front and the backsides of any type hole and 8” of glass2 on the left and right sides.
- The minimum radius of all inside corners is equal to the thickness of the glass2
2cm thick countertops require a radius of 2cm (3/4”)
3cm thick countertops required a radius of 3cm (1-3/16”)
- Note – the radius requirement is not optional, regardless of the item’s final use.
8. Transportation and Handling
Handling of glass2 is one of the most important aspects and listed below are very important procedures and details. Following these proven methods is required to maintain the integrity of the product and to avoid damage; damage that may not show up immediately during installation or even shortly after the installation is completed:
- glass2 will be loaded into special wooden crates for all slabs or cut-to-size jobs from the factory. These special crates are very specific in design and made in such a way that they can be used again for transportation from the distributor to the end-user. It is best to use these crates or have similar ones made to the same dimensional tolerances and quality. This not only gives the supplier and the distributor confidence that the material being delivered is in its original good state, it eliminates the majority of credit claims due to mishandling during transportation.
- It is required that the distributor verify the shipment’s condition to the factory within 10 days from receiving the material, after that time the factory will not assume or accept any claims for material problems.
- glass2 strongly suggests that the distributor require their customers to verify the material condition upon receipt of goods.
- if distributors decide to repack glass2 and send to their customers then the distributors are required to make sure the slabs are packed in crates fully capable of safe transportation.
- For all aluminum or steel framed storage racks, whether inside or outside, use high-density rubber or wood to avoid any contact between glass2 and the metal. The slabs must be set into the storage racks with the long side down at an angle between 6 degrees to 9 degrees from vertical. Be sure the glass2 contacts all points equally before clamping or securing with nylon straps. If fabrication tables are metal, there must be wood or high-density rubber between the frame and the glass2
- When moving slabs, take great care to avoid any contact with any object, to maintain the glass2 The proper method of moving glass2 is via nylon web slings and not “pinch type” clamps.
- At the installation site, should the cabinets be made of aluminum or steel, these must have a “high- density rubber” barrier or a wood substrate.
- Prior to loading a fabricated piece, clean the glass2 finished surface thoroughly to ensure that there are no bits of glass, stone, dust, dirt or other debris on the surface. During the loading, transportation, and unloading extra caution should be used to prevent any type of debris from getting in between the slabs or from coming into contact with the slabs.
- Since glass2 has very little flexibility, unlike marble or granite, it is very important to protect against any kind of bending, tension, and stress during the clamping and/or strapping for transportation.
- glass2 may never be transported “flat” in any manner nor on any type vehicle; moving glass2 either vertically or near vertical is the only accepted position (7 degrees is optimum angle).
- Anytime a hole is to be cut, remembering that a minimum allowable stock of glass2 is required, be it a kitchen sink hole or a vanity bowl hole or stove top cut out, the cut is ideally to be done at the shop and transported only with the aid of “hole saver clamps” or a vacuum support rails or similar type products. If the hole must be cut at the job site, place the glass2 in proper position and secure it to the countertop; the holes should have already been drilled to correct size at the shop. Extra care must be taken to support the entire circumference of any hole that is cut into glass2. The “hole” remnant shall not be allowed to drop away upon completion of the cut.
- Sink supports are required for glass2 installations; these are not optional, even for lightweight under mount sinks such as stainless steel and copper. Heavy-duty sink supports or a floor mounted base-frame is required for heavy sinks such as cast iron, porcelain, and natural stone types.
- glass2 should be kept in a dry and ventilated place. Use spacers between each piece in order to allow moisture to escape as this eliminates mold and mildew in a high humidity environment. If glass2 is to be stored outside, then cover with either an awning or a waterproof cloth; be sure to remove the waterproof cloth after a rainfall to allow excess humidity to escape. Should mold get on glass2 it is easily cleaned with vinegar and a cotton cloth.
- If more than one (1) slab is needed for a job and those slabs are to be joined by a common seam, the slabs must be “shade matched” before cutting. The slabs do not have to be from the same Heat Lot but the “shade” must be nearly identical. Only the human eye can determine if the hue, intensity, and the crystal structure is as close as possible and if it is acceptable; similar to matching the colors of an exotic granite. Also, the direction by which the slabs are cut is crucial to the color looking the same due to light transparency and refraction.
Details for how to match & cut the same shade of glass2:
- Before any slab is CUT, it is standard and required procedure to inspect the slab before it is cut. . It is highly recommended to cut off a small piece from the ends or sides of each slab to be matched, placing them side-by-side under varying light conditions to determine if the slabs are an acceptable match.
- Before any material is cut-to-size, it has to be “templated” and part of the template process is to insure that the material is as ordered.
- Before the material is transported to the job site, it is also standard and required procedure to put all joining pieces (seams) together to be sure the fit is correct, this is often referred to as a “mock up”.
- once at the job site, set the pieces in place to “match” all the pieces (joining all seams at this time).
- after all pieces are in place, then the installer can check for proper fit and color matching (again). Upon approval, “fix” the glass2 material to the counters with clear silicone ONLY, sealing the seams, attaching any sinks or cook tops, and attaching faucets & hardware.
- Silicone is primary adhesive product used with glass2 and in some applications polyester resin is also acceptable
- There are two types of silicone: (1) Seam Sealer and (2) Setting Compound
Clear Silicone is for the darker colors and Water Clear Silicone is for the lightest colors (Antarctica, Caramel, Chiffon, Iceberg, Seafoam, Sky, and Snowflake)
- Epoxy Resin, Marine Resin, Polyester Resin, Acrylic Resin, or any other type adhesives are NEVER allowed as a setting compound for adhering glass2 to a counter, bench, or other such support.
- Applications for silicone and polyester resin are listed below
- glass2 is currently produced in two types of patterns: (1) solid, single color and (2) mixed colors.
- Only “clear” Silicone is to be used as the bonding agent; polyester resin is not required. Perform installation by making the glass2 pieces level from the bottom side with either wood or composite shims. Suction-type leveling devices may be used to “pull” the pieces together but NOT for “pressing” them to a level
- the use of “clear and water clear” silicone is very important because other types of silicone will tend to magnify the seams when back lighting, under lighting, or under cabinet lighting is utilized.
- glass2 cannot be leveled like other solid surfaces because it needs to expand and contract slightly with changes in surface temperature.
- It is important to remember that glass2 is less flexible than natural stone or man-made solid surfaces. Therefore, with regards to leveling, pressing down on one side or edge or corner to achieve a level on the opposite side or edge or corner is never allowed and must be avoided.
- Allow for a minimum 3mm seam gap for interior applications and for exterior applications allow for a 5mm seam gap. This gap is for all seams and between the wall and the glass2 material, which will provide space for it to expand and contract.
- Silicone Seam Sealer is authorized for use with glass2 as a (1) seam filler, (2) seam sealer, and (3) contact substance for attaching it to cabinets, walls, fireplace surrounds, shower panels, and various other uses.
- Silicone may be used to fill the gap next to the wall but this is usually not necessary since coverage normally will be provided by the backsplash.
- glass2 does not require an underlayment, such as plywood, but the maximum width of any unsupported area is 24” in any direction (side-to-side and front-to-back on a countertop, island, vanity top, bookshelf, etc) when ¾” wide cabinet walls are used. Overhangs, like natural stone, are allowed without support up to 12” away from the cabinet wall. Larger overhangs will require corbels or other similar type supports.
- glass2 can be laminated in the same manner as granite and the same rule follows that the laminated strip must be cut from the same piece the countertop piece was cut from and must be the adjoining strip that it is to be laminated to.
- Both polyester resin and silicone are required, to be used in conjunction with each other; both the resin and the silicone must be used on the mating surfaces with each covering 50% of the width for the entire length of the laminated piece. Use a small bristled brush to paint the resin on the outside or exposed half and then run a 2-3mm (1/8”) bead in the center of the other half to apply the silicone; when mating the strip to the countertop, the adhesives will spread out and securely bond them together.
- For extremely wide laminated pieces, like hotel aprons, support pieces (example: 6” – 12” long x 20mm wide x 20mm thick or an entire length support strip x 20mm wide x 20mm thick) can be added to the backside, again using resin and silicone, to ensure the security of the laminated piece.
- glass2 can be used for both interior or exterior applications.
- Kerf cuts can be produced at the factory, upon request, with appropriate and approved
This is likely to require a special glass2 production called CGB (Clear Glass Backing) or CTGB (Clear Tempered Glass Backing), whereby a layer of clear glass is laminated to the backside of the glass2. This backing option is only available when produced at the factory on a Special Order basis.
- Wall retaining clips and anchors can be provided, upon request.
- For interior applications, standard allowance requires a minimum 3mm gap and for exterior applications a minimum 5mm gap is required. Large format sizes (more than 2 sf/pc) may require a larger gap, depending on the application, size, temperature, exposure to direct sunlight, etc. The factory must be contacted and consulted to get the proper gap requirement.
- The gap provides space for glass2 to expand and contract, which is normal for all types of glass.
- Standard tiles must be set (laid) with Silicone Setting Compound only.
- Thinset, mastic, cement, or other type adhesives are NEVER allowed as a setting compound for glass2.
- If utilizing glass2 in an elevated state, for the purpose of lighting or insulation, glass2 requires clear glass at 7mm thick to be laminated to the backside, which may only be produced at the glass2
- Make sure that the flooring is flat before setting glass2.
- No sand, cement, or other type of concrete may be in the gap before setting silicone. If there is any material in the gap, it must be cleared away first, before filling the seam. The best technique is to insert a rubber or elastic pad (strip) in the gap (seam) in order to have enough space for the glass2 to expand and contract.
- Background of the floor must be white to maintain the original glass2 Even if the floor is the same color as glass2, it will appear darker than it’s natural state.
- For interior applications allow for a 3mm gap between each piece of glass2 and at all ends or edges of the flooring; for exterior applications a 5mm gap is required.
- Installations must NOT utilize under mount sink clips that require drilling into the glass2
- Silicone is the only adhesive approved to seal an under mount sink rim to the bottom side of the glass2.
- Heavy sinks made from such materials as porcelain covered cast iron, natural stone, engineered stone, and even stainless steel with a garbage disposal attached must be supported from the bottom side via a cabinet bracket or a base-frame that rests on the cabinet’s bottom shelf.
- It is acceptable to put polyester resin on a composite shim, then to place the resin at each corner and at mid-points of the longest sections of the under mount sink for added security.
- When glass2 is to be utilized in pools, spas, high rise building, desert environments, and other possible applications there may be size restrictions and increased seam width requirements so the factory must be consulted in those situations. Direct sun light can make expand and contract quickly and to its capacity, which is why such a circumstance requires factory consultation.
- When attaching the faucet fixtures, extra care must be taken not to over tighten any of the parts that come in contact with the glass2.
- The range of sunlight, air, water temperatures, and atmospheric pressures may require additional special attention and consideration. Therefore, consult the factory for design, fabrication, handling, and installation guidance for any situation not specifically covered in this manual.
- REMEMBER that (1) silicone is the only approved seaming and setting material and (2) thinset, mastic, cement, or epoxy resin are never allowed to be used in conjunction with glass2.
- glass2 cannot be installed in a way that it is enclosed within a fixed area or “frame” since this would severely or completely limit it from expanding and contracting in a way the material naturally requires.
10. End User Guidelines
When glass2 is being used as a countertop, it must not come into direct contact with any heated object, be it metal, glass, porcelain, or other types of cookware. Any object that has a temperature in excess of 205 degrees Celsius (400 degrees Fahrenheit) cannot be placed on the surface of glass2. The use of thick potholders to act as insulators are recommended as a barrier but even then the heat cannot be allowed to exceed its sustainable temperature of 90 degrees Celsius (195 degrees Fahrenheit) for a maximum of ten (10) minutes. The End User is responsible for determining the “reality” of the heat shielding effect of the insulator being used to shield the heat source from the glass2
glass2 has an incredible transparent effect but DO NOT use any large “heat producing” type lighting when establishing a light source to enhance the look and transparency of glass2. Examples of light sources include but are not limited to:
- Incandescent lamps which need to be 200 watts or less and placed at a minimum of 150mm (5.9”) from the glass2.
- “Cold” light sources (fiber optic, neon, some LED’s and energy conservation light sources (all at 60 watts or less) cannot be glued or otherwise attached to glass2. There must be a minimum distance of 100mm (3.9”) between the light source and the glass2.
- Ribbon and Strip lights made of LED’s that are encased in silicone to provide a waterproof medium is an option for attaching a light source directly to the back of glass2.
- Most light sources must have a heat dissipation space to keep the temperature below 90 degrees Celsius (195 degrees Fahrenheit). Only thorough testing of the specific light being used can determine the “reality” of the heat being generated as manufacturing processes may produce the same amount of light that is generated (and regulated) but not the amount of heat that is dissipated.
- Once installed, glass2 is a very strong and dependable surface but like all solid surfaces excessive heat, weight, and impact must be avoided.
- Due to its non-porous nature, glass2 does not require sealing or waxing.
glass2 is a very durable product yet scratches or chipping may occur during fabrication, transportation, installation, and everyday normal use. Both scratches and chips can be repaired but be SURE to always first prepare the area to be repaired by cleaning it completely (removing any debris, cleaning with alchohol, and blowing dry with high pressure air) and then by following these methods:
Surfaces can be renewed via glass specific pads … See Section 13 below.
- The BEST way to learn how to repair glass2 is to have a professional glass technician train shop personnel on the required tools, supplies, and techniques. Each manufacturer’s pads require a slightly different technique and practicing on a scrape piece of glass2; this is the fastest, safest, and most economical way of developing the skills needed to work with glass2.
- Deep scratches require a re-polishing system that includes special sandpaper and cerium oxide (a standard powder utilized in glass industry).
- Light scratches, smudges, and smears may be treated with cerium oxide only. Should this be the case, mix the cerium oxide with water to form a thin paste, apply generously to the scratch, and buff it out using a high-density cotton buffing wheel at 2,000 rpm’s or less.
Whenever the surface has chips, it is best if filled with clear liquid polyester resin and edges are most easily repaired with clear knife grade polyester resin.
- If a color tinted resin is desired for the damaged edge or surface, applying the resin is done in the same manner as natural stone or a manmade solid surface (such as quartzite). Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for polyester resin application.
- Chips on a polished surface are more difficult to repair than edge chips. Water Clear polyester resin MUST be properly mixed and applied according to the manufacturer’s instructions; once completely cured, razor off any excess and buff out using cerium oxide on a high-density cotton buffing wheel.
If glass2 takes an impact from a heavy item (such as large steel cooking pot or an iron skillet), the glass2 material may not shatter but, depending on the impact, could crack. A crack may also occur via improper heat source contact.
- Cracks that extend and are noticeable are best left “as is” if there is no movement in the countertop unless aesthetically a customer wants the top replaced.
- If the crack can be felt with the fingernail or the edge of a razor blade, the customer may choose repair, which involves the fabricator or glass technician to go on-site and make the repair. The only possible repair is usually the apply water clear epoxy on the crack to get some penetration of the epoxy into the crack, then the technician can grind and polished the crack so it will not be felt and will likely not “grow” or become worse over time.
- There is no way of repairing a crack in such a manner that is will be unnoticeable, therefore for some customers the only solution is replacement of the damaged piece by a professional fabricator/installer.
Any material (natural stone, man-made solid surfaces, and glass2) can be severely damaged or destroyed, including a shattering effect, if a large enough force is applied to it (mass + speed) so glass2 and any countertop material must be used within its physical boundaries.
12. Tooling and Supply List (commercially available items)
- Item Bridge Saw / CNC Blade, continuous rim, porcelain type
Purpose Heavy-duty cutting
Name Silencer III
- Item Hand Saw Blades, continuous rim
Purpose Light duty cutting
Name Vetro Glass
- Item Cup Wheel, continuous rim with aluminum backing
Purpose Edge and corner shaping
- Item Drum Wheel (Zero Tolerance), brazed diamond, continuous rim
Purpose Sink and corner shaping
Name Profiler Z
- Item Drill Bit, diameter as per job requirements, continuous rim
Purpose Faucet holes and sink holes (sink cut-out)
Brand Diamond Drill & Tool
- Item Router Bit (Hand Held or CNC)
Purpose Edge profiling
Name HS Blue
- Item Polishing Pads, 4”, #200, #500, #1000, #2000, and #3000
Purpose Edge polishing
Name Ceramica Resin
- Item Glass Specific Sandpaper Pads
Purpose Surface scratch repair and edge polishing
GT (Glass Technology)
Name CDT Discs (#1, #2, and #3)
Heavy Duty Ventilated Premium (120, 180, 220, 320)
3m Trizact Discs (Course, Medium Course, Medium, Fine, Polish)
- Item Cerium Oxide
Purpose Final polish for surfaces and edges
Brand C R Laurence
GT (Glass Technology)
Diamond Fast Powder
- Item Silicone Seam Sealer, 100% high VOC
Purpose Bonding and sealing seams and sinks
Brand C R Laurence
Name WCS1 (water clear)
- Item Silicone Setting Compound, 100% high VOC
Purpose Bonding and sealing seams and sinks
- Item Polyester resin
Purpose Hole and chip repair for surfaces, edges, seams, and edge lamination
Name Transparent, flowing
- Item Polyester resin
Purpose Bonding sinks and hangars to the bottom surface
Brand Akemi or Tenax
Name Clear, knifegrade
- Item Fire brick, ceramic
Purpose Cleaning (sharpening) diamonds in tooling
- Item High-density Polystyrene
Purpose provide a flat, clean, and vibration dampening surface
Name Foamular 150, ½” x 4’ x 8’
- COMMENT – all tooling and support products must first be tested and evaluated by the fabricator and installer … the above items are not an all inclusive list, just examples of items we have found effective and efficient.
Note – medium or fine grit only
Note – 200 grit or higher
Note – Medium grit only
Note – Position #2 or higher (cannot be lower than 150 grit)
Note – use of a rubber backer pad is required (solid brass or aluminum are not recommended)
Note – a felt pad is required for the CDT and 3m discs. Use of a ventilated backer pad is required for HD discs
- The use of any technique, procedure, or item not specified within these instructions is done at the user’s risk and glass2 shall not be responsible for any damage that may occur or undesirable results that may be obtained.
- glass2 has developed its own proprietary brand of tooling and supplies which are available upon request. These are used exclusively at the glass2 factory for all cut-to-size projects and are proven to perform to the highest standards. These items are available upon request and are much less expensive than those similar items available on the open market, as listed above.
- glass2 can be fabricated, transported, and installed without incidence if this instruction is followed in every aspect.
The metal grate of a waterjet table and the concrete or wood of a bridge saw table is almost always unlevel and is certainly too rigid to cut glass2 directly on top of it. Therefore, never cut glass2 directly on any metal or concrete surface. Put a barrier between the glass2 and the cutting surface. Acceptable barriers are ½” thick as: plywood, high-density foam, and rubber.
The only sure way to cut any size hole (sink, stove, or faucet) is with a water jet that is properly set up for glass using the correct pressure and aggregate. A barrier is required, not optional, for any cut being made on either a waterjet or bridgesaw. Only a CNC with an adequate number of supports does not require a support barrier. All the same rules apply for cutting , meaning you must have plenty of water, holes and inside corners require radius cuts, and the top and bottom edges of all cuts must have a minimum 2mm bevel that is polished.
glass2 should have reinforcements at each sink or stove hole. Natural Stone fabricators often cut groves into the backside of the stone and then embed a square metal rod and fill it with epoxy to strengthen (reinforce) the material for practical use after installation. glass2 also should be reinforced but we recommend only using aluminum channel or tubing to epoxy to the backside for added strength, without cutting a grove and embedding it, because it is critical to keep the full integrity of the glass2 material intact.
WALL CLADDING – standard installation
A-Frame type bracing, and have fork lift access from both sides.